Valparaíso, Chile can take your breath away, both literally and figuratively. The city consists of 41 “cerros” or hills that rise up from the coast, one flowing into the other in a labyrinth of brightly colored, well-graffitied homes and buildings. The roads, staircases, and alleys that connect the hills either climb up at a steep incline or snake their way lazily along the side of the hill. Climbing the hills on foot is a workout even for the young and fit. Fortunately for the elderly, the infirm, and the lazy, there are many cheap public transportation options, including ancient “ascensores” or funiculars, busses, colectivos, and taxis.