On April 12, I took the bus to Siem Reap from Phnom Penh. It left three hours late, and even though it was an AC bus (which are more expensive), the driver never turned it on. So it was a long, hot eight hours, but I finally arrived and checked in at the Siem Reap Hostel well after dark. My first impression of Siem Reap was that it was very smoky and smelled like a blazing fire. I never did figure out where it came from, but it was indeed smoky the entire time I was there. My second impression of the city, after exploring it on foot, was that I was going to like it. It seemed fun, hip, easy to get around, and full of restaurants, markets, and bars. I had specifically planned to be there for the upcoming Khmer New Year because I had heard that it was the only city in Cambodia that really celebrated the holiday with a bang.